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1 Silk Noils
Silk noils may be divided into two major divisions, i.e., Schappe noils, produced on the Continent, and English noils. The broad difference is that whereas the former are not free from the natural gum of the silkworm, the latter have the gum fully discharged. Owing to the difference of the processes of which they are the outcome, the English noil is whiter and longer than the schappe noil. The English noil in its turn is of two kinds "long" and "exhaust." The long noil is the simple by-product of the flat-dressing frame, and the exhaust (or short) noil has been recombed and is more " neppy " than the material from which it came. All silk noils, long or short, schappe or English, may be divided into " white " and " tussah " according as they are the produce of one kind of silk or the other. The white has many sub-divisions (" China " and " Italian," " Steam," etc.) and the tussah may be light or dark brown according as its origin is Chinese or Indian waste silk. These noils, after spinning, appear as noil yarns, which are useful among other purposes as striping yarn for cheap tweeds. They are also useful substitutes for " spun " silk at three to four times the price. Noils are used in the production of fancy effects by Continental spinners of the so-called " imitation " yarns. And in Yorkshire silk noils are periodically required by costume and dress tweed makers for procuring " knop " or snowflake effects in cheap woollens. For this purpose the " short " or " exhaust " noil is preferable to the " long " and in some circumstances the short or re-combed noil fetches a higher price than the intrinsically better noil containing the long fibre. -
2 Silk Camlet
An all-silk dress fabric woven with narrow line stripes from a two-colour warp and a weft of a different colour. Made in plain and twill weaves in many qualities. -
3 Silk Croise
A dress fabric in a twill weave, made from all-silk yarn. Croise is the French word for twill weave. -
4 Dress Goods
A general trade term for a large variety of woollen, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon or other kinds of fabrics, used for women's and children's dresses. -
5 silk
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6 Japanese Silk
A native-made dress material of stiff handle. Made with silk weft and fine flax warp. Usually weft sateen weave to give a silk face. The name in most countries applied to the Habutai silk dress fabric made in Japan (see Habutai) -
7 Chung Shan Chou Silk
A new silk developed in Nanking, made in imitation of light woollens, the object being to get the Chinese public to use it for dress suits in substitution for imported woollens. The fabric stands washing, can be re-dyed, and has no rustle. Made in plain, figured or woollen designs. The silk is produced from superior raw silk and is prepared m the local thread-making factories. The warp is a ply yarn and the cost is much higher than ordinary silks. The fabric is sold under the brand " Yl Shing Kung."Dictionary of the English textile terms > Chung Shan Chou Silk
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8 Buratte Silk
A silk dress material woven in Italy from native silk. Plain weave, piece-dyed. -
9 Camayeaux Silk
A French term for a silk dress fabric made with a coloured warp and a black silk weft, the picks were alternately single and double, giving a faint cross rib effect. -
10 Mysore Silk
Soft, fine, undressed East Indian silk dress goods, made plain, dyed or printed, mostly in floral patterns. All are 34-in. wide and cultivated silk is used for the yarns. -
11 Sillon Silk (Or Furrow)
A silk dress fabric in which furrows are formed across the piece. Fine silk yarns are used and very fine set. The furrow cords are formed by using four or five picks together of thick cotton yarn. A good example is woven from a printed warp, 200 ends and 60 picks per inch, with 12 cords per inch in the weft, 26 denier warp, 52 denier weft, cords 5 threads 24's cotton.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Sillon Silk (Or Furrow)
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12 Sultan Silk
A silk dress cloth made in Bombay Presidency from cultivated silk yarns in satin weave. -
13 Zephyr Silk Barege
Dress goods fabric made from worsted warp and silk weft, plain weave and printed. Alternatively, the warp may be worsted and silk doubled yarn with fine hard spun weft of worsted.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Zephyr Silk Barege
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14 Chagrin Silk
A silk dress material in a pebbled weave, to resemble leather, dyed in browns, etc. -
15 Cire Silk
A very high lustre all-silk fabric, used for hat and dress trimmings. Dyed in metallic colours as gold, black, steel and copper. Made 24 in., about 80 X 160 per inch, satin weave, 150 denier warp and 90 denier weft. Cire (French for wax). The black sorts are very common. -
16 Jersey Silk
A wool and silk dress material, dyed in the piece and occasionally printed, of the early 18th century. -
17 Marble Silk
A silk dress fabric woven with a single colour warp and wefts of several colours designed to simulate the veining of marble. -
18 Mayo Dress Fabrics
Several dress fabrics are included in this term and the common characteristic is that they are woven in the Mayo twill weave. They are all of super qualities and made with botany weft in each case, but the warp may be silk, worsted or super doubled cotton yarns.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Mayo Dress Fabrics
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19 Uzen Silk Satin
Dress fabric made at Uzen, Japan, and exported to many countries. It is known as the " washing satin " because of its strength and resistance to laundry damage. -
20 Gaze
The French term for gauze, and there are many fabrics made in France to which this name is given. The most common are as follows: - Gaze a Bluter - Made in cotton or silk and used for sifting purposes. It is a plain gauze. Gaze Brilliantine - A high-class dress leno cloth made from all silk yams. Gaze an Fuseau - See Grille. Gaze Barege - Very light dress goods, silk warp, wool weft, or of all wool, often printed. Gaze Ceres - A fabric for making women's hats, silk warp and split straw weft. Leno weave. Seldom used today. Gaze Cristal - Very light French dress goods, silk warp, having small bright and dull spots alternating on the face. Gaze Damassee - A gauze fabric of silk warp and weft in which the design is produced with two wefts, either different colours or different material. Gaze Faconnee - A French gauze with brocade design woven one ground thread and one figuring thread alternately. Gaze Paconnee Broche - French gauze fabric, plain gauze, on which is hand embroidered various designs. Gaze Faconnee Raye - French gauze with warp stripes. Gaze de Fil - A French-made gauze, flax yarns, with a light starch finish, usually striped. Gaze d'ltalie - A French gauze, made of silk yams. Gaze de Paris - A French light-weight, silk dress fabric, made of organzine warp and trame weft. Gaze de Voilette - A French production made from all-silk yams in fine reeds and closely picked. A pure, very fine and transparent gauze. Gaze Filoche - A French all-silk leno fabric. Gaze Fond Filoche - An all-silk French gauze, organzine warp, grege weft, with bars across the weft formed by groups of picks. Gaze Lisse - A leno cloth, very light weight, made in France from undyed silk yams. Gaze Marabout - A very light, silk French gauze. Also a pile fabric made with very short plush stripes, alternating in three colours, over a thin gauze ground. Gaze Milanaise - A French light-weight dress fabric with equal number of ends and picks per inch. Made of " Milanaise " yarn. Gaze Ondee - A French very light dress cloth or trimming fabric made of organzine warp and weft on " ondee " silk. Gaze Perron - A French leno fabric, all silk, used for bordering on dresses. Gaze Platree - A striped French gauze, made of yellow silk and given a light starch finish. Gaze Tour Anglais - The French term for leno.
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